A Dive into the World of Japanese Fashion Subcultures
Owing to the adaption of the concept of self-expression, Japanese fashion has seen a rather dramatic trend, making it one of the fascinating spectra of styles.
Tokyo, the site of flourishing Japanese culture, is also famously regarded as the fashion capital of Japan. The prevalent fashion subcultures have been effectively adapted by the locals and have made their way into every nook and cranny of the world.
An individualistic and progressive approach towards clothing highlights how fashion isn’t about what you wear but about how your clothing choices define who you are.
Let’s have a look at 5 Japanese street fashion subcultures you MUST know about!
Visual Kei
Source: Tokyo Fashion
Although the term was officially coined in 1992, Visual Kei prevailed in the early 1980s. Derived from punk, metal, and rock Japanese bands like X Japan, Visual Kei is known for its gender-bending and androgynous form of expression.
Darker, monochromic shades of red, blue, and grey with the occasional occurrence of feminine and luminous colours dominated the Visual Kei garments. From fabrics imitating skulls and laces to intricate gowns, this fashion subculture also made way for ripped pants and spiky belts. What a great way to put your graphic t-shirts to use!
Bulky chains and face jewellery aside, a major focus is placed on the styling of the hair and makeup. Teasing and flat-ironing your hair is a mandate if you wish to be a part of the circle! The dark makeup must make itself known and this applies to both men and women engaging in the Visual Kei aesthetic.
Although fairly popular during its reign, Visual Kei saw a decline in its sustenance. In the 2000s, with the rise of Neo-Visual Kei, the style surely made its way back with a little deviation from its original foundations. Fun Fact: The birth of Lolita is attributed to Visual Kei!
Lolita
Source: Tokyo Fashion
Want to refrain from being called “Ita Lolita” (A negative label for an unsuccessful go at Lolita fashion)? Well then check this out!
Debuted in the 1990s, Lolita fashion heavily focuses on hyper-femininity following its influence from Doll Fashion and Victorian, Rococo, and Edwardian apparel. Taking more inspiration from Lewis Carroll’s ‘Alice In Wonderland’, Lolita made its way to Tokyo’s Harajuku and etched its motto, an ode to innocence and girlhood onto its streets.
An A-line or jumper skirt paired with a cotton, satin, and/or georgette petticoat, a ruffled full-sleeved blouse with knee-high socks, and round-toed shoes is the staple outfit of Lolitas. As for accessorising, wigs, bonnets, bows, gloves, and corsages go without saying! Variations to its facets due to its widespread reach in countries like North America, Korea, and Europe have been made over time, but the crux remains untouched.
Although typically associated with a cute, childlike, pastel, and pink colour palette, the various sub-categories of Lolita fashion serve their own distinctive features.
Sweet Lolita
It is the most common and earliest form of Lolita fashion subculture teeming with everything pink, everything 'bow-esque', and everything frills!
Classic Lolita
More on the mature side, Classic Lolita is largely influenced by a historic mode of dressing. Solid colours and little to no extreme form of accessorising are its primary features.
Gothic Lolita
As the name suggests, a Gothic Lolita look (based on Victorian and/or Edwardian style) comprises dark-coloured clothing, vampiric motifs, hair styling, and makeup. Its popularity is credited to the Japanese fashion designer and guitarist, Mana.
Sailor Lolita, Punk Lolita, and Country Lolita are the relatively newer forms keeping modesty and femininity at the forefront. Through Lolita fashion, young folks made an attempt to hold onto their innocence before totally immersing themselves in adulthood; this charged them with confidence.
Gyaru
Source: Tokyo Fashion
Gyaru definitely demanded a lot more heed due to its vexed nature and it peaked in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Tanning, enormous fake eyelash extensions, contact lenses, and bleached blonde hair were the chief requirements of Gyaru fashion.
Going against the traditional Japanese fashion standards, Gyaru was almost poking fun at the then-American fashion fiasco. Glittery and shiny makeup, colourful plastic ornaments, animal print, and slogan t-shirts encompassed the ideal Gyaru look.
As one would expect, this clothing trend died out despite the failing attempts made by Neo-Gyaru in the late 2010s.
Gyaruo and Ganguro
Gyaruo is a similar appearance adorned by males, and Ganguro is a more evolved version of Gyaru with excessive tanning being the primary element. Both comprise the same extravagant details.
Kogal
Source: Tokyo Fashion
Arising from the Gyaru fashion subculture, Kogal is said to be derived from words meaning ‘high school’ and ‘girl’. This style incorporates a look mirroring a school uniform, with checkered skirts, sweaters, and white legwarmers.
Similar to Gyaru, tanning was a part of Kogal until it lost its spark but blonde hair remained anchored. A big, cute bow around the neck and a cell phone held by hands adorned with long nails complete the charming look!
Despite a rocky start, Kogal remains one of the most popular fashion subcultures in Japan and may be found worn by a large crowd in and out of schools.
Rockabilly
Source: A Geek in Japan
Adopted from the American fashion arena in the 1950s, Rockabilly is still very much alive in the Harajuku and other neighbourhoods of Japan. Early on, it owed most of its features to America, even the dance movements that came with it! But Japan did not fail to add its own Japanese flair to it.
If we were to employ the easiest method to describe men’s style of clothing and hair, simply saying ‘Elvis Presley’ would suffice. From the sleeked-back large hair to black boots, black t-shirts, black jeans, and black leather jackets, everything about the Rockabilly style screams Rockabilly.
As for women, victory rolls decked atop occasional colourful blouses paired with cardigans and polka-dotted skirts were the most common style opted for. This style attracted the attention of many, thus explaining its extensive following.
However, unlike other fashion subcultures, Rockabilly has not seen many variations in its core since its initial breakthrough in Japan.
Geisha, Kawaii, Angura Kei.. the list goes on. But after only covering a minuscule percentage of the Japanese fashion subculture, it is clear that fashion helps one scrutinise one’s own self. Japan always has and still continues to embrace the culture of various nations while keeping its own cultural essence alive. By choosing to dress the way you do, you are only strengthening your self-esteem. I mean, just look around the streets of Harajuku, so vibrantly fashionable!
References:
https://www.tsunagujapan.com/a-guide-to-key-japanese-fashion-subcultures/
https://j-fashion.fandom.com/wiki/Visual_Kei
https://lolitafashion.fandom.com/wiki/Gothic_Lolita
https://lolitafashion.fandom.com/wiki/Classic_Lolita
https://lolitafashion.fandom.com/wiki/Sweet_Lolita
https://www.theparisreview.org/blog/2017/05/25/lolita-fashion/
https://www.tutorialspoint.com/lolita-fashion-a-subculture-of-japan
https://www.rebelsmarket.com/blog/posts/lolita-fashion-what-is-it-and-where-did-it-come-from
https://aesthetics.fandom.com/wiki/Gyaru
https://gyaru-109.fandom.com/wiki/Kogal
https://j-fashion.fandom.com/wiki/Kogal
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